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Posted by Raymond Berg on September 26, 2009 at 3:18 AM under
• 0 commentsWhen I first started shooting I especially enjoyed the 'peep sight' as a youth, because it gave me a fairly fast focus on the target (small game). However, the drawbacks were; limited viewing area and sometimes a dead spot from the front sight. However as I progressed into the scope arena, I soon found the popular variable scopes. From this early beginning, I was taken with the ability to vary my focus and target acquisition ability. Over the years a number of innovations, have provided a wide range of precision shooting and viewing optics. From precision variable scopes for competition shooting, along with variable spotting sccopes and range finders, to red dot and laser sights, we hava very large number of options when choosing shooting optics. What I want to focus on(no pun intended) today though, is the variable rifle scope and the selection process when choosing a scope for your own shooting needs.
What do the numbers mean?
All scopes have a sizing system made up of 3 numbers eg: 3-9x40mm, The first number in the range tells the lowest magnification. If we use the example of a 3-9x40mm scope we would have variable magnification capable of bringing the target 3 times closer than the naked eye and up to 9 times closer than the naked eye. An important consideration in choosing a variable rifle scope is how low the magnification, not how high since the higher the magnification the less light you get through the eyepiece.
The final number is the objective lens diameter, measured in millimeters, and normally they are 40 to 45 millimeter. Some of the extreme models go up to 75 millimeters, even though it isn't necessary for most conditions. The higher the number of the objective lens, the more light you get through your eyepiece. A very delicate balance exists between magnification and objective lens diameter, which determines the greatest detail, so important for accurate shooting.
Target acquisition
Choosing magnification range depends on several factors. The lower the magnification, the greater detai you will see. Also, keep in mind the target size and lighting conditions where you will be shooting. Small game or small targets, at long range, will require a greater magnification ie: 20x. However, the longer ranges will require a larger objective lens if shooting in lower light conditions, to enable more light gathering ability into the eyepiece. So, you might choose 3-9x40 scope for deer hunting, but for pheasant or squirrel hunting, you might need 6-20x or 8-25x variable rifle scope if you will be shooting targets from a longer distance. For small varmints at longer ranges a 5-25x60mm scope may be mor appropriate.
In addition, the objectives can be adjustable or variable. External parallax adjustments (click here for parralax information) make it possible to adjust the diameter of variable objective hunting scopes, which can make a difference on scopes that go over 10X magnification. Scope below that magnification will generally not have that adjustment.
Coatings and clarity
Lenses are typically waterproof, and fog-proof and are coated with single or multiple-layered coatings that help reduce glare and loss of light. Generally, the more layers of coatings-the sharper the contrast and the clearer the image will be. Fully, multi-coated scopes are generally regarded as having the best lenses since they usually mean better light transmission and sharper contrast for the user.
Field of View
Another measurement to consider when selecting a scope is the 'field of view' (FOV). This measurement refers to how many feet left to right you can see when you are looking through the scope at any given distance. This same term applies to Spotting Scopes, Range Finders, and Binoculars. As an example, you will have about a 30 foot FOV at a 100 yard distance with 3 times magnification. As the magnification goes down, the Field of View goes up. At 9 times magnification, the Field of View would be aapproximately 14 feet at 100 yards. This is important when determining how quickly you can acquire your target, particularly if it is moving. Obviously, a 14 foot FOV will not provide much time to 'acquire' a moving target compared to a 30 foot FOV.
ng I especially enjoyed the 'peep sight' as a youth, because it gave me a more accurate focus on the target. However, the drawbacks were limited viewing area and sometimes a dead spot from the front sight. However as I progressed into the scope arena, I soon found the popular variable scopes. From this early beginning, I was taken with the ability to vary my focus and target acquisition ability. Over the years a number of innovations, have provided a wide range of precision shooting and viewing optics. From precision variable scopes for competition shooting, along with variable spotting sccopes and range finders, to red dot and laser sights, we have a very large number of options when choosing shooting optics. What I want to focus on today though,(no pun intended) is the variable rifle scope and the selection process when choosing a scope for your own shooting needs.
What do the numbers mean?
All scopes have a sizing system made up of 3 numbers eg: 3-9x40mm, The first number in the range tells the lowest magnification. If we use the example of a 3-9x40mm scope we would have variable magnification capable of bringing the target 3 times closer than the naked eye and up to 9 times closer than the naked eye. An important consideration in choosing a variable rifle scope is how low the magnification, not how high since the higher the magnification the less light you get through the eyepiece.
The final number is the objective lens diameter, measured in millimeters, and normally they are 40 to 45 millimeter. Some of the extreme models go up to 75 millimeters, even though it isn't necessary for most conditions. The higher the number of the objective lens, the more light you get through your eyepiece. A very delicate balance exists between magnification and objective lens diameter, which determines the greatest detail, so important for accurate shooting.
Target acquisition
Choosing magnification range depends on several factors. The lower the magnification, the greater detai you will see. Also, keep in mind the target size and lighting conditions where you will be shooting. Small game or small targets, at long range, will require a greater magnification ie: 20x. However, the longer ranges will require a larger objective lens if shooting in lower light conditions, to enable more light gathering ability into the eyepiece. So, you might choose 3-9x40 scope for deer hunting, but for pheasant or squirrel hunting, you might need 6-20x or 8-25x variable rifle scope if you will be shooting targets from a longer distance. For small varmints at longer ranges a 5-25x60mm scope may be mor appropriate.
In addition, the objectives can be adjustable or variable. External parallax adjustments (click here for parralax information) make it possible to adjust the diameter of variable objective hunting scopes, which can make a difference on scopes that go over 10X magnification. Scope below that magnification will generally not have that adjustment.
Coatings and clarity
Lenses are typically waterproof, and fog-proof and are coated with single or multiple-layered coatings that help reduce glare and loss of light. Generally, the more layers of coatings-the sharper the contrast and the clearer the image will be. Fully, multi-coated scopes are generally regarded as having the best lenses since they usually mean better light transmission and sharper contrast for the user.
Field of View
Another measurement to consider when selecting a scope is the 'field of view' (FOV). This measurement refers to how many feet left to right you can see when you are looking through the scope at any given distance. This same term applies to Spotting Scopes, Range Finders, and Binoculars. As an example, you will have about a 30 foot FOV at a 100 yard distance with 3 times magnification. As the magnification goes down, the Field of View goes up. At 9 times magnification, the Field of View would be aapproximately 14 feet at 100 yards. This is important when determining how quickly you can acquire your target, particularly if it is moving. Obviously, a 14 foot FOV will not provide much time to 'acquire' a moving target compared to a 30 foot FOV.
Reticle Selection
Reticle selection is equally as important as the other components of scope selection. A reticle chosen without consideration of the often variable shooting conditions can cause much frustration. Reticles come in a wide variety from the original 'Crosshairs' to 'dot' and 'duplex'. The crosshairs are acceptable for target shooting with high resolution. However, if you are hunting larger game, then the duplex reticle is very easy to use with rapid target acquistions. Now if you intend to own a precision scope for long range prairie dog shooting (300- 400 yasrds) then the crosshairs with a dot is the preferred reticle for ease of small target acquisition. The time taken to carefully select a reticle based on your shooting needs will reap much satisfaction when in the field or at the range. Take the time to read our scope reviews to help you in this process.
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Posted by Raymond Berg on September 25, 2009 at 3:48 AM under
• 0 commentsHave you ever wondered what the term Parallax means? I asked the same thing when I first started shooting with a higher magnification rifle scope. This guide should give you some insight into getting the best focus out of your target, varminting or hunting scope, or any other adjustable parallax scope for that matter.
Have you ever looked through a higher magnification scope and noticed that if you move your eye off center to the edge of the exit pupil, the reticle seems to shift around the target? The shift occurs when the parallax setting is out of adjustment for the distance to the target. While some have mistaken the parallax adjustment to be a focus adjustment or even act as a rangefinder, neither of these is the case. The parallax adjustment, when set properly will insure that the reticle remains positioned correctly on the target; as if your crosshairs were painted on, as a part of the target, specifically for your vision & scope setup. Now if your scope is not a "target" or a "varmint hunting" rifle scope, you usually won't need to be concerned with the parallax setting. In most hunting scopes the parallax problem is negligible. Most often, I do not have a problem with parallax on my lower power hunting scopes. I hunt, and also enjoy achieving tight groups at the range, so then parralax is of critical importance to me, where accuracy is a must. I personally, do not want the aggravation of a floating reticle when I'm shooting for accuracy at the range or in the field.
Most of the higher power scopes, with a power of 12X or higher, will have an adjustment ring at the end of the objective lense (the end closest to the target). Usually the parallax adjustment ring has the suggested settings printed on them, so you can just dial in the range you're shooting from. The problem is tthat these suggested settings are rarely as accurate as they could be. You might ask, "Why should I go through the trouble of getting my settings "just right"? Why not just use the suggested setting? The reason is simply that you could easily shrink the size of your groups by as much as 30%, just by taking the time to properly set the parallax adjustment on your scope. Many shooters don't realize that with a few adjustments they could greatly affect their shooting performance. This is particularly so, when really tight groupings are desired, for competition or longer range varminting. If you are like me you will find that the documentation that comes with your scope isn't particularly helpful when it comes to ease of learning how to use it. The scope manufacturers assume you already know. Howvever, the adjustment for parralax should not be avoided, since they are fairly simple to make.
Now that you have an understanding of what parallax is, it's time to fine tune your scope for increased accuracy. We will assume you have already zeroed in your scope and that it's properly sighted in. You will need to set up your rifle so it is securely positioned on a bench. A solid shooting rest with a vise is recommended. Dial in the suggested setting on the parallax adjustment ring for the range that you're shooting from. Now, look through the scope and shift your eye back and forth, left to right so you can see if the crosshairs seem like they are moving across the target. Experiment with the adjustment ring until you have eliminated the illusion that your crosshairs are moving. When you think you've got it perfect, take a little white-out liquid paper and make a mark on the parallax adjustment ring so you'll know where to adjust it later. I see some people paint their mark or score it into the metal, but I prefer something that's not so permanent until I'm absolutely certain about the position, so the white out liquid paper can easily be removed once you get the parralax setting locked in. Your next step is to take three to six shots (2 goups of 3 shots each) and check how your grouping has improved. You will see improvement, and then take the time to continue the parralax 'dialing in' by moving he target 50 yards out and repeat the process. It will be very useful to find the perfect settings for all the ranges that you typically shoot in 50 yard increments.
Happy shooting!
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Posted by R. Berg on September 25, 2009 at 3:28 AM under
• 0 commentsSighting in Your Scope
You now have your new scope
just installed on your rifle and are ready to do some shooting. There
is just one problem...that is the scope will normally not hit anywhere
near your aim point unless you sight in your scope. The first step in
this process is to bore sight your scope using a bore sight tool
designed just for this purpose. Bore sighting is simply a means of
aiming the bore of the rifle at the aim point (bullseye or any other
spot on the target). With the bore sight tool projecting a laser beam
at the aim point the scope can then be adjusted with the elevation and
windage knobs (turrets) to bring it into alignment with projected laser
dot showing on the paper. The bore sighting can be done at shorter
distance (25 yards) since it is an approximation of the bullet path,
but does not take into account the trajectory of the actual bullet as
it leaves the barrel. Once the scope's reticle is lined up with the
laser dot on the paper you are ready for the next step. I equate the
balance of this process to fine tuning.
Actual sighting in.
This is where the fun begins. I
recommend using a solid set of bags on a good benchrest or preferrably
a vise type benchrest that securely holds the rifle from moving. These
typically have some windage and elevation adjustment which helps in
the initial positioning of the gun. I personally like to sight in at
100 yards while some shooters prefer a shorter range that will provide
the same bullet point of impact due to the trajectory of the particular
round you are shooting. As an example, if you shoot your favorite round
at 100yards it will also hit the target a the same point by shooting at
a closer distance eg; 25 yards. Place no more than 3 shot strings to
determine your difference between aim point and point of impact. If the
point of impact is grouped at 3 inches horizontally from the aim point
then your adjustments will be based on the minute of angle (MOA) for
your particular scope.
Zeroing in:
Scopes are calibrated
for windage and elevation adjustments in what is known as Minutes of
Angle (MOA). For example 1 minute of angle equals 1 inch at 100 yards.
Most hunting scopes are calibrated in 1/4 (MOA) increments. The windage
& elevation knobs have a knurled pattern on the perimeter with each
click of the knob providing 1/4 inch point of impact change at 100 yards. If the first group is centered approximately 4 inches off the aim point trhen you will turn the knurled knob 16 clicks in the proper direction to bring the point of impact into line with the aim point. Th esam holds true for elevation adjustment. Complet your windage adjustment first and then make you elevation adjustments once your on target horizontally. If your point of impact is 2 inches off the aim point you will need to adjust theknob by 8 clicks.If you are sighting in a longer range high resolution varmint scope you may have 1/8 inch MOA adjustments. This provides much much finer adjustments at longer range. This would also be the case for longer range
competition shooting.Continue to shoot in strings (groups) of 3 shots
to determine tightness of groupings. If your groups are consistantly
centered on the aim point you have effectively 'zeroed in' your scope.
Consistant Patterns
The tightness of these patterns
is then determined by other variables, such as load, wind, humidity
& temperature. In addition, the steadiness of your bench rest (or
bags) is in question then your groups will vary in spread of the shots
as well as in relation to aimpoint. To eliminate some of the 'human
element'. A noted earlier, I recommend a solid vise type of benchrest
with elevation and windage adjustments on a cement benchrest table. If
your goal is precision target shooting or long range varminting.
personally, I prefer a fine crosshair reticle for target with a higher
powered scope & large 50mm or higher objective lens. This enables a
very precise placement on the aimpoint & prevents the blocking of
prior shots by the reticle.
This process is really quite enjoyable if you treat it as a fine tuning of a fine scope anf rifle.
A quick guide for MOA adjustment is as follows:
1/4 Inch MOA at 100 yards = 1/4 change in point of impact per click
1/4 inch MOA at 25 yards = 1/16 inch change in point of impact per click
1/4 inch MOA @ 400 yards = 1 inch change in point of impact per click
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Posted by Admin on October 3, 2007 at 1:55 AM under
• 0 comments
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